Conversion Chart

The comparisons listed below are only rough approximations. The criteria used to rate the difficulty of the rock varies from country to country. As always, this means that people with different styles will find different systems easier or harder. Explainations of the abbreviations used in the chart are here.

UK Adj. UK
Tech.
Fr. YSA Aus. UIAA Belg. Pol. DDR Nor. Swe. NCCS V RSA Czech
HS           5 D

sup
    5- 5-     E as

UIAA
4b 5a 5.7 14 V VIIa
5+ 5 5 F7 F1
VS 15
4c 5b 5.8 6- inf

TD

sup
VI VIIb 5+ 5+ F8 V0- 6
16 F2
H
VS
6 V0 F3 7
5a 5c 5.9 17 VI+ VIIc 6- 6- F9
6+ V0+
E1v 18
5b 6a - a
b
5.10
c
+ d
7- inf

ED

sup
VI.1 VIIIa 6 6v F10 V1- G1 7a
19
E2 7 VI.1+ VIIIb 6+ 6+ V1 G2 7b
5c 6b 20 F11
21 7+ VI.2 VIIIc 7- V2
E3 7- G3 7c
6c - a
b
5.11
c
+ d
22 8- inf





ABO
VI.2+ IXa F12

as

UIAA
.
.
.
6a 23 7 7 H1
E4 8 VI.3 IXb V3 H2
7a 24 7+ F13 V4
25 8+ VI.3+ IXc 7+ V5 H3
E5 6b
-
7b
+
- a
b
5.12
c
+ d
26 9- VI.4 Xav 8- F14 V6
8- I1
E6 27 9 VI.4+ 8 V7
6c -
7c
+
28 9+ Xb 8 F15 I2
  VI.5 8+
E7 - a
b
5.13
c
+ d
29 10- V8 I3
8a

+
30 VI.5+ Xc 8+ F16
7a 10 9- V9
E8 31 VI.6 9- F17
?
8b

+
9 V10
- a
b
5.14
c
+ d
32 11 VI.7   J
E9 9   V11
7b 8c

+
33 9+
  34 V12
7c 9a

Abbreviations

Fr. French system - also used in Spain and Italy. Often used for sport routes in the UK, especially indoors.
YSA Yosemite Decimal System - American code used to describe any route in the mountains. The full system has a number, a decimal point and then another number. The first digit indicates the type of route:
Class 1: easy, level hiking
Class 2: hiking with some altitude gain or loss (ie. in hills)
Class 3: hiking in steep terrain, with the occasional use of hands
Class 4: easy climbing with the use of hands but without the need for a belay
Class 5: Technical climbing with a belay
Class 6: Aid climbing.
Aus. Australian Ewbank system - gaining popularity in the southern hemisphere.
UIAA Union Internationale des Association d'Alpinisme - attempt to create standardised system, mostly used in Austria and Germany with some other countries making slight variations to suit local conditions.
Belg. Belgian system.
Pol. Polish system.
DDR Old East German Saxon sytem - now mostly replaced by UIAA.
Nor. Norwegian system - variation of UIAA.
Swe. Swedish system - another variant of UIAA, almost identical to the Norwegian modifiction.
NCCS ? - another American system.
V V-grade - the international standard bouldering code created by John "Vermin" Shermon in 1980. Look below for more bouldering grade systems.
RSA Old South African system, now replaced by copy of Ewbank system.
Czech Czech variant of UIAA.

Bouldering Grades

Bouldering grades from the three main areas are compared below. These can be linked into the climbing grade conversion chart above using the V-grades.

V-grade Fontanbleu Peak District
V0 3 B0
V1 4-/4+ B1
V2 5-/5/5+ B2
V3 6a/6b B3
V4 6c/6c+ B4
V5 7a< B5
V6 7a+ B6
V7 7b B7
V8 7b+ B8
V9 7c B9
V10 7c+ B10
V11 8a B11
V12 8a+ B12
V13 8b B13
V14 8b+ B14
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